Hipster Enology

Wine. Bring it.

Tuesday
Nov 22,2011

Jesse submits this missive from the midwest…

WHO: The Dreaming Tree
WHAT: 67% Merlot, 33% Zinfandel
WHEN: 2009
WHERE: Geyserville, CA
HOW: First, the dreams of fraternity brothers are harvested by hand. They are cold soaked in Miller Lite for two days & then fermented in oak from the rocking chairs of Cracker Barrel for five years. It is the fifth year that gives the wine its maturity.

WHY: Fueled by a resentment for having to listen to Dave Matthews Band seemingly every day of my formative years, I pulled The Dreaming Tree’s “Crush,” off the shelves of my local big name grocer. The Dreaming Tree wines are sold as a collaboration between Simi winemaker Steve Reeder & musician Dave Matthews. I was absolutely shocked that the marketing-powers-that-be chose “Crush” as the red blend’s name, instead of the obvious Dave Mathews Band tie-in “Crash.” (Ed. Note: Further research has shown that ‘The Dreaming Tree’ and ‘Crush’ are also the names of Dave Matthews Band songs, from 1998.) Why, in sheer Googlitude alone, ‘crash wine’ would be a much easier page ranking to top than ‘crush wine’ in a sea of custom crush pads, harvest blogs, etc.

The front label is innocuous in a tea-stained parchment style with a line drawn tree. I turned the bottle around half-expecting to read Modesto, CA, city of Gallo fame, but instead found Geyserville, CA. A brief investigation proved it to be a product of Constellation Wines. There are also, what are supposed to be a couple of authenticity inspiring blurbs from the star & winemaker, however, they served to prove nothing except that Dave Mathews was authentically stoned.

The passage is included for your reading pleasure below:

Two Hot Dogs in a Pick-up
A hot day
Two dogs
Chase a stick
Thrown into a pond
Again and again
The older, slower dog
Never gets the stick
And moans at the effort
But always goes in
“Maybe this time”
-Dave Matthews

Charming. When I uncorked the bottle, I found that the opening volley doesn’t have the sweetness or the full mouthfeel that one expects from a grocery store brand. In fact, it was surprisingly sour to start, instead of fruit forward, hinting only at unripe mulberries & pomegranate. The fruit hits about mid-palate, with strong blueberry flavors. The finish continues to be sour with gritty tannins. You would think that a wine geared towards the backwards baseball cap wearers of the 90s with this flavor profile would pair well with grilled meats or other alma mater tailgating fare. However, this wine blew it when paired with bacon. Bacon.

This wine appears to be non-vintage without the blend components printed on the label. However, the information is available on the Internet from various wine shops carrying the bottle. Chances are, they’ve left it open to reblend later to accommodate different harvest’s fruit and create a consistent product. This is not to say that additives might not contribute to that consistency as well. Snark aside, the wine is drinkable, but the price point near $15 will last until the novelty wears off.

One further note, this wine appears to be a branded product that takes advantage of a particular person’s fame in the way that Ed Hardy & Banana Republic wine or 50 Cent’s Vitamin Water flavor, “Formula 50,” do. Personally, I don’t see any reason to draw conclusions from the tasting of this wine to Steve Reeder’s work at Simi Winery, or Dave Matthew’s Blenheim Vineyards in Virginia, since neither originated in a think tank.

Sunday
Sep 19,2010
  • WHO: Chappellet Winery
  • WHAT: 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, 1% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot
  • WHEN: 2007
  • WHERE: Pritchard Hill, Napa Valley, CA
  • HOW: According to our friend Danny who works at the winery, the grapes went through about 20 days of maceration and were barreled in 40% new oak for 18 months. This allows for some extraction of oak without it being overly assertive.
WHY: This Bordeaux style wine is a mosaic of French & American influences. To start, the complete nose of the Mountain Cuvee is a French wine drinker’s dream. (Specifically speaking, a hot Spaniard with a rockin’ tan and well-placed tattoos… or maybe that’s just ours.) After pulling the cork, the nose shifted and changed like a chameleon – as only the best wines do. It had all of the rich topsoil dust of a Bordeaux bouquet complemented by deeper aromas of cigar box and toasted barrel. Despite a consistent progression, we still knew that even after an hour of decanting, this wine’s secrets were still being kept aggressively guarded. After two hours, the wine only then began to deliver subtle hints of stewed blackberries and figs. We could have spent a full day dissecting the nose without even tasting the wine but where’s the fun in that?

The smallest sip of the Mountain Cuvee covers the mouth, front to back, cheek to cheek. The touch of unavoidable, angry alcohol from Napa blends with a soft mosaic of French-inspired features to create a kaleidoscopic, yet complete taste. This is the stuff that Robert Parker’s dreams are made of; California in the front, Bordeaux in the back. Notably, there is a lack of fruit in this wine, but once you peel back the layers of earth, baking chocolate, and mulling spices, you will still find a rich, decadent, and evenly balanced wine.

The Wrap: If you’re a Napa fan with a penchant for the old world, the 2007 Chappellet Mountain Cuvee is for you. As far as “bang for your buck,” it doesn’t get much better. This bottle retails around $25 in savvy wine shops & will stand up to the “big boys” of Napa. We were very fortunate that Danny thought it important for us to try this wine and gifted us this bottle from his private collection. Since then, we’ve probably purchased at least half a case without leaving one bottle in our cellar for proof. Do as we have, and treat yourself well without breaking the bank.

Wine Website: http://www.chappellet.com/

2008 Arizona Stronghold Mangus

Thursday
May 20,2010
Ben loves on an Arizona Strongold Mangus
  • WHO: Arizona Stronghold Vineyard
  • WHAT: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon 36% Sangiovese 9% Merlot
  • WHEN: 2008
  • WHERE: Sulphur Springs Valley near Cochise, AZ
  • HOW: Mostly neutral oak (older barrels that impart no flavor) and a few choice 2 to 3 year old French oak barrels. Around January, they rack all of the barrels once, and then pump the juice back into those same barrels. Come April/May, the blending process begins and after the blend is chosen, it is pumped into stainless steel to homogenize for a couple of months until bottling.
WHY: Arizona Stronghold set out to create a re-imagined “Super Tuscan” ending up with this label as the payoff. Mangus strikes a balance of old world poise and new world spunk. We noticed that the 2007 vintage was slightly dominated by the Sangiovese (’07: 43%, Sangiovese, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot 9% Cabernet Pfeffer, 3% Petite Sirah VS. ’08: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Sangiovese, 9% Merlot) so we asked Tim White, the winemaker, about the difference in vintages. (We’re nothing if not thorough.) He explained that they just had more Cab to work with for the ’08 but would like to see the blend return to being Sangiovese-driven for subsequent vintages. The name Arizona Stronghold may also ring a bell with some of our readers, as one of the wine labels associated with famed musician Maynard James Keenan. Other affiliated wine labels also include Caduceus & Merkin. His passionate exploration of wine has been recently documented in the film, Blood Into Wine.

The 2008 Mangus is a remarkable wine. Considering the rugged region in which these grapes were grown makes this accomplishment even more significant despite the more than 400 years of viticultural history in the state. We breathed in scents of buttered toast, dusty attic, and the sweetness of freshly-baked cranberry wheat bread. At the time, we expected a buttery dusty wine such as this to also have the scent of vanilla. Now, knowing that the wine bathed in mostly neutral oak, the lack of that note isn’t surprising. While not the dominant grape in the blend, their Sangiovese adds a rustic old-worldness to the wine lending to an approachable complexity on the palate. All four of us were amazed by the stand off of acid and tannin in the Mangus blend. As the wine rolls over one’s tongue, the mouth both waters and dries at the same time. This duality elicited a few “yums,” one “giggedy giggedy,” and [REDACTED] from our group.

The Wrap: Italy has something to learn from this new world interpretation of their wine. We suggest drinking this bottle with lamb kabobs, roasted red peppers, blackened anything, or gumbo. Seek out flavorful foods for this wine and take the time to decant it before pouring. Just because the wine is from Arizona doesn’t mean that anyone should feel comfortable letting the bottle heat up past 60°. This is a wine that need not be aged as it is already primed for consumption. In regards to this bottle, we were very lucky to have a sample sent to us by ASV, but we’ll be buying more in the near future. Likewise, their Nachise blend as featured in Our Top Wines of 2009 has already become a regular impulse buy.

Wine Website: http://www.azstronghold.com/

Bear Flag Red Blend #1

Tuesday
Aug 25,2009
Bear Flag Front Label
  • WHO: Bear Flag Wines
  • WHAT: Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Alicante Bouschet, Merlot, Tempranillo [Percentages Unknown]
  • WHEN: Our money is on 2009
  • WHERE: Modesto, really?
  • HOW: Beth and Hillary Cutler took their favorite grapes and left them to multiply like fuzzy dice in a car.

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