Hipster Enology

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Archive for the ‘California’ Category

Tuesday
Nov 22,2011

Jesse submits this missive from the midwest…

WHO: The Dreaming Tree
WHAT: 67% Merlot, 33% Zinfandel
WHEN: 2009
WHERE: Geyserville, CA
HOW: First, the dreams of fraternity brothers are harvested by hand. They are cold soaked in Miller Lite for two days & then fermented in oak from the rocking chairs of Cracker Barrel for five years. It is the fifth year that gives the wine its maturity.

WHY: Fueled by a resentment for having to listen to Dave Matthews Band seemingly every day of my formative years, I pulled The Dreaming Tree’s “Crush,” off the shelves of my local big name grocer. The Dreaming Tree wines are sold as a collaboration between Simi winemaker Steve Reeder & musician Dave Matthews. I was absolutely shocked that the marketing-powers-that-be chose “Crush” as the red blend’s name, instead of the obvious Dave Mathews Band tie-in “Crash.” (Ed. Note: Further research has shown that ‘The Dreaming Tree’ and ‘Crush’ are also the names of Dave Matthews Band songs, from 1998.) Why, in sheer Googlitude alone, ‘crash wine’ would be a much easier page ranking to top than ‘crush wine’ in a sea of custom crush pads, harvest blogs, etc.

The front label is innocuous in a tea-stained parchment style with a line drawn tree. I turned the bottle around half-expecting to read Modesto, CA, city of Gallo fame, but instead found Geyserville, CA. A brief investigation proved it to be a product of Constellation Wines. There are also, what are supposed to be a couple of authenticity inspiring blurbs from the star & winemaker, however, they served to prove nothing except that Dave Mathews was authentically stoned.

The passage is included for your reading pleasure below:

Two Hot Dogs in a Pick-up
A hot day
Two dogs
Chase a stick
Thrown into a pond
Again and again
The older, slower dog
Never gets the stick
And moans at the effort
But always goes in
“Maybe this time”
-Dave Matthews

Charming. When I uncorked the bottle, I found that the opening volley doesn’t have the sweetness or the full mouthfeel that one expects from a grocery store brand. In fact, it was surprisingly sour to start, instead of fruit forward, hinting only at unripe mulberries & pomegranate. The fruit hits about mid-palate, with strong blueberry flavors. The finish continues to be sour with gritty tannins. You would think that a wine geared towards the backwards baseball cap wearers of the 90s with this flavor profile would pair well with grilled meats or other alma mater tailgating fare. However, this wine blew it when paired with bacon. Bacon.

This wine appears to be non-vintage without the blend components printed on the label. However, the information is available on the Internet from various wine shops carrying the bottle. Chances are, they’ve left it open to reblend later to accommodate different harvest’s fruit and create a consistent product. This is not to say that additives might not contribute to that consistency as well. Snark aside, the wine is drinkable, but the price point near $15 will last until the novelty wears off.

One further note, this wine appears to be a branded product that takes advantage of a particular person’s fame in the way that Ed Hardy & Banana Republic wine or 50 Cent’s Vitamin Water flavor, “Formula 50,” do. Personally, I don’t see any reason to draw conclusions from the tasting of this wine to Steve Reeder’s work at Simi Winery, or Dave Matthew’s Blenheim Vineyards in Virginia, since neither originated in a think tank.

Tuesday
Aug 30,2011
  • WHO: Sculpterra Winery
  • WHAT: 100% Primitivo
  • WHEN: 2009
  • WHERE: Paso Robles, CA
  • HOW: Cold soak prior to fermentation. Fermented partially in oak. Aged 16 Mos. 60% New American Oak. Bottled February 2011.
WHY: With the California market dominated by Zinfandel, it’s nice to share a little familial love with his reclusive twin brother Primitivo from time to time. We received the 2009 Sculpterra Primitivo as a sample from millennial winemaker Paul Frankel and happily share our tasting notes with you today.

The color of the Sculpterra Primitivo looks, as you would expect a cultivar of the same variety as Zinfandel would, rich purple with a slightly garnet rim. From the beginning, it was very striking; the nose possessed notes of rhubarb, cherries, toasted oak, and tobacco. Although a hipster’s first instinct is to snort, er, inhale deeply, we let ourselves enjoy the aromas, before beginning the tasting. The aromas led to a very welcoming mouthfeel, full and almost chewy. Unlike California Zins, where their vigor can create overpowering fruit flavors, the Primitivo maintained complexity and depth expressing wet tea leaves, dark chocolate and a touch of blackberry brandy. There were very round but tart tannins and cigar box flavors on the tongue.

The Wrap: With reduced upfront fruit power, the Sculpterra Primitivo shines with secondary aged flavors. You’d never guess that this old soul was still but a wily 2 year old. This speaks highly of the winemaker, himself but a wily 20-something. We can’t wait to go visit the winery to taste through their full lineup and check out the sculpture garden on premise.

Wine Website: http://www.sculpterra.com/

Wednesday
Jun 29,2011
  • WHO: Vines on the Marycrest
  • WHAT: 68% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, 9% Syrah, 8% Zinfandel
  • WHEN: 2009
  • WHERE: Paso Robles, CA
  • HOW: This is rosé three ways. Victor used the Saignée method by limiting the amount of time the juice stayed in contact with the skins. He also performed carbonic maceration by destemming the grapes and letting them ferment whole in an oxygen-free, carbon dioxide environment. Finally, he used the juice from under-ripe grapes that were picked early and used solely for this rosé.

WHY:In 2009, we toasted rosé to a real summer. Languishing on our coast, swimming in the ocean and playing bocce ball on our beaches; we sipped Provençal rosé from Nalgene bottles. Cut to the 2010 summer in Los Angeles: darkness, foreboding, rain. This was not the 73 degrees and sun summer that we pay 9.75% sales tax for. Cue Victor and his tax-free ray of light industry sample.

The Vines on the Marycrest Summertime seems to glow in the glass. In a test tube, it would make a great substitute for glow sticks. The fluorescent watermelon color of the wine is deceitful, as it leads most to believe the juice will be sweet. We apologize, White Zinfandel fans, you’re about to be disappointed. The nose is dusty, most likely attributed to the Mourvedré, contributing a funk similar to a rosé from Bandol. This dust is finished with mineral and floral spring water accents.

The front palate has the tiniest hint of candied apple fading elegantly into lingering acidity. The residual sugar is immediate then fades into a rosé, contributing body. The grenache and mourvèdre make way for the syrah and zinfandel. (Both are perfect accompaniments for the two more predominant grapes in the blend.) Vegetal, tomato vine and nettle in the mid-palate give way to creek bed, shale and more dust – reminiscent of another great rosé producing region, Tavel. The acidity of this dry rose hangs on for a lengthy finish, much like an Indian Summer.

The Wrap: Vines on the Marycrest’s Summertime is able to make summer feel perpetual with a body that can carry it through any season. That being said we will be looking towards Summertime for our pairings well into fall for lighter Thanksgiving fare. The 2010 vintage will prove to be another success: drinkable, affordable & easily paired. While Joni Mitchell and Herbie Hancock portray a city view of summertime in the song that provided its namesake, 2011 finds at least a couple of us chasing lightning bugs during a country summer. In either setting, Summertime still shines.

Wine Website: http://www.vinesonthemarycrest.com

Sunday
Sep 19,2010
  • WHO: Chappellet Winery
  • WHAT: 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, 1% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot
  • WHEN: 2007
  • WHERE: Pritchard Hill, Napa Valley, CA
  • HOW: According to our friend Danny who works at the winery, the grapes went through about 20 days of maceration and were barreled in 40% new oak for 18 months. This allows for some extraction of oak without it being overly assertive.
WHY: This Bordeaux style wine is a mosaic of French & American influences. To start, the complete nose of the Mountain Cuvee is a French wine drinker’s dream. (Specifically speaking, a hot Spaniard with a rockin’ tan and well-placed tattoos… or maybe that’s just ours.) After pulling the cork, the nose shifted and changed like a chameleon – as only the best wines do. It had all of the rich topsoil dust of a Bordeaux bouquet complemented by deeper aromas of cigar box and toasted barrel. Despite a consistent progression, we still knew that even after an hour of decanting, this wine’s secrets were still being kept aggressively guarded. After two hours, the wine only then began to deliver subtle hints of stewed blackberries and figs. We could have spent a full day dissecting the nose without even tasting the wine but where’s the fun in that?

The smallest sip of the Mountain Cuvee covers the mouth, front to back, cheek to cheek. The touch of unavoidable, angry alcohol from Napa blends with a soft mosaic of French-inspired features to create a kaleidoscopic, yet complete taste. This is the stuff that Robert Parker’s dreams are made of; California in the front, Bordeaux in the back. Notably, there is a lack of fruit in this wine, but once you peel back the layers of earth, baking chocolate, and mulling spices, you will still find a rich, decadent, and evenly balanced wine.

The Wrap: If you’re a Napa fan with a penchant for the old world, the 2007 Chappellet Mountain Cuvee is for you. As far as “bang for your buck,” it doesn’t get much better. This bottle retails around $25 in savvy wine shops & will stand up to the “big boys” of Napa. We were very fortunate that Danny thought it important for us to try this wine and gifted us this bottle from his private collection. Since then, we’ve probably purchased at least half a case without leaving one bottle in our cellar for proof. Do as we have, and treat yourself well without breaking the bank.

Wine Website: http://www.chappellet.com/

2007 Napa Cellars Zinfandel

Wednesday
Jun 30,2010
2007 Napa Cellars Zinfandel
  • WHO: Napa Cellars
  • WHAT: 88% Zinfandel, 12% Petite Sirah
  • WHEN: 2007
  • WHERE: Napa Valley including St. Helena, Calistoga, and Yountville.
  • HOW: The winemaker’s notes went into great detail about how this wine was made. The highlights of those notes were: color extraction by cold soaking for three days, early pressing of the grapes leading into a 5 day fermentation, then aged into French and American oak; 23% new for 18 months.

WHY: As of late Napa Cellars is bringin’ it back, “back to basics,” that is. Typically, when you think “basic” you think “boring“, but the 2007 Zinfandel turned out to be a pleasant treat for us Hipsters. They’re making wines that will keep people comfortable, as they like to put it, and there‘s nothing wrong with being comfortable if you‘re trying to live in L.A. In their most recent vintage release, which includes a Cab Sauv, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel, they have accomplished just that. From the moment we first inhaled, our eyes lit up as we picked up strong notes of dried cherry, dark berry cobbler, cinnamon spice, and brandy on the nose. Once it coated our eager palate, the rich dark fruit, black pepper, and cinnamon flavors fell into subtlety, revealing a more delicate Zin despite the 15.3% alcohol. Cue group exhale. The 12% Petite Sirah acts as an excellent filler and gives it that mid-palate, velvety mouth feel that makes you want to sneakily pour yourself that lil’ extra when no one else is looking so you can get to know it better. :) Not only did this Zin deliver, it helped soothe the soul after a long work week which makes this wine perfect for cozying up by a fire or ideal for backyard bbq-ing and bocce ball

The Wrap: I think we all agree with the winemaker’s sentiment about bringing it “back to basics.” Being on a budget while still wanting to live the good life, we LOVE being able to enjoy a bottle that sells for $22 but tastes like $50. Someone was kind enough to send us this quartet of goodness to sample, but next time we see this gorgeous bottle sitting on the shelf, we’re most definitely taking it back to Hipster headquarters. As the economy picks back up, and we one day make those 6 figure incomes, not only will we be able to purchase our plot of land in Napa, but we won’t forget wines like this. We applaud you Napa Cellars for speaking our language and helping us happily indulge in guilt-free, old-school “Hipster Nights.

Wine Website: http://www.napacellars.com/

Friday
Jun 11,2010
  • WHO: Miramont Estate Vineyard
  • WHAT: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
  • WHEN: 2006
  • WHERE: Lodi, CA
  • HOW: After unsuccessfully trying to make earthly contact with the vintners, we looked up the vintage notes online. According to the Miramont website, the Celestial Lodi Cab was harvested by some dirty hippies “under starlight” at around 24 brix. The juice underwent a secondary malo-lactic fermentation then bathed in 1 year old 60 gallon American Oak barrels for an amount of time unknown to us.
WHY: Before we get to the wine in the bottle, it should be noted that NASA is thanked for the image on the label. You, the reader, should know that the [pun intended] celestial image, which NASA is thanked for, is printed on gold foil giving it an irresistible sheen. Drawn like fish to spinning shiny lures, we recklessly purchased this gilded bottle for the label (and because it was from Lodi, CA.)

We’ve developed a strong affinity for Lodi wines, recognizing the familiar terroir at first whiff. Beyond that, we didn’t get any pleasant notes from the nose. One of the hipsters sniffed piña colada & moldy oak while another mentioned the aroma of bowling alley shoe disinfectant with a slight mint note. Tasting notes were limited to grapefruit rind and soggy strawberries. For a cab, the wine lacked tannin and made up for it with unpleasant acid in spades.

The Wrap: Sure, we bought the wine at Big Lots for a grand total $3.00 plus CRV, but that doesn’t automatically make it a loser. Not all $3.00 cabs are bad; but this is an exception to that exception. It was thin, light, and bruised like the sad animals in the Sarah McLachlan ASPCA commercials. This isn’t a wine we’ll be buying again though it might make a good cooking wine, as it already tastes a little like red wine vinegar.

Wine Website: http://www.miramontestate.com/

Wednesday
May 12,2010
  • WHO: Phillips Hill Estates
  • WHAT: 100% Pinot Noir from the Oppenlander Vineyard in Comptche’s Surprise Valley north of Anderson Valley.
  • WHEN: 2006
  • WHERE: Mendocino County, California
  • HOW: Aged 11 months in 100% French oak barrels: 40% new, 20% 1 year & 40% seasoned. 2007 vintage data stated whole berry fermentation: 4 day cold soak, 16 days on skins. Unfined and unfiltered.

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Sunday
Jan 10,2010
Foxen Mourvédre Grapes
  • WHO: FOXEN Winery
  • WHAT: 2005 Vogelzang Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 Mission Accomplished, 2008 Rosé of Mourvédre
  • WHEN: Hipster Enology FOXEN Theme Dinner & Winery Visit
  • WHERE: The Shack: 7200 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria, CA 93454
    New Digs: 7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria, CA 93454
  • HOW: During the beautiful California summers, we hipsters like to camp in wine country. On the final day of our October journey, we decided to make one last stop. Luke pointed his migratory tarantula divining rod at the map and FOXEN it was.

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Wednesday
Sep 30,2009
2005 Michael David Petite Petit Front Label
  • WHO: Michael~David Winery
  • WHAT: 85% Petite Sirah, 15% Petit Verdot
  • WHEN: 2005 (We had to reach to the back shelf for this one!)
  • WHERE: Lodi, CA
  • HOW: Aged 14 months in French Oak barrels, then bottle aged.

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Tuesday
Sep 15,2009
Rideau
  • WHO: Rideau Vineyard
  • WHAT: Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache [Percentages Unknown]
  • WHEN: 2006
  • WHERE: Solvang, CA
  • HOW: All grapes estate grown, assumed to be aged in French Oak based on previous vintage information.

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